There are two things I love most when I travel: historical significance and spectacular views. That isn’t to say I dislike other aspects of traveling, like eating wonderful food or meandering through different cities while shopping, but nothing quite compares to impressive views paired with an equally impressive history. And that’s exactly what Sintra offered me in Portugal.
Less than an hour’s drive from Lisbon, Portugal’s capital and largest city, lies the resort town of Sintra, tucked away in the foothills of a mountain range. Known for its pastel-colored palaces and dense forests, Sintra is one of Portugal’s most sought-after destinations. And for good reason: the town alone offers plenty to marvel at, including the National Palace of Sintra, with its twin champagne bottle-shaped chimneys that embody much of the town’s whimsical design.
But the town itself isn’t why I wanted to return to Sintra immediately after my first visit. Rather, it was everything surrounding it, because as it turns out, Sintra is more than just a resort town. It encompasses the surrounding mountain range—fittingly called the Sintra Mountains—and stretches all the way to Portugal’s western coast, including numerous beaches and even Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe.
However, like most tourists, my first visit to Sintra was for its fairytale palaces, and none embody that image more than the hilltop Pena National Palace. Originally a 16th-century monastery, the palace was expanded in the mid-19th century by King Ferdinand II of Portugal, who added an entirely new wing. That layered history is still visible today, with the monastery and later additions blending surprisingly well through Romantic-era design.
Seeing it up close, though, gave me a whole new appreciation for the history and craftsmanship that went into preserving it. The 16th-century monastery is painted a relatively faded red, while the 19th-century addition is a vibrant yellow, both complemented by accents of blue and purple in the intricate tilework. The views, too, were nothing short of incredible.
But even so, that wasn’t what enchanted me most. A short distance from the palace, within Pena Park, stood a cross atop the highest point of the Sintra Mountains. Known as Cruz Alta, it can be reached by a trail that winds through the dense greenery of the mountainside. Only about a thirty-minute uphill hike from the base of the palace leads to some of the best views in all of Portugal. From there, the entire stunning surrounding landscape can be seen, including one of the most striking views of the palace.
Of course, in a town known for its palaces, Pena National Palace wasn’t the only palace I visited during my first trip to Sintra. Quinta da Regaleira, more remarkable for everything around it than anything inside it, was acquired at a public auction by António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro in 1893. Having amassed a fortune in Brazil, he hired the famous architect Luigi Manini to design and build Regaleira, which was eventually completed in 1911.
Unlike Pena Palace, which is defined by its landmark history and sweeping views, Quinta da Regaleira has a rich history but cannot compare in terms of scenery. Not being perched on a mountaintop certainly doesn’t help, and its views are not nearly as jaw-dropping—at least not in the traditional sense. But what Quinta da Regaleira lacks in panoramic scenery, it more than makes up for in the hidden wonders throughout its forested grounds. Much of my enjoyment came from exploring the property itself and all the small nooks and crannies that felt like marvels to discover. There were hidden tunnels, strange symbolism, and even an Initiation Well inspired by Dante’s Inferno. It was breathtaking in its own way.
And that was exactly what made me return to Sintra the very next day. Because simply learning about its history and discovering its views, on their own, wasn’t what enchanted me from the start. Rather, it was the process of doing those things—of getting my feet dirty, so to speak—that made the entire experience worthwhile and all the more beautiful. It was my love of the outdoors shining through.
So I went west, where beaches lined the coast and sunshine glimmered off the waters of the Atlantic Ocean like jewels, all of which was visible from clifftops and hiking trails so close to the edge you could taste the salt in the air. I started hiking south from Praia das Maçãs, intent on making it to Cabo da Roca, but hours later, dehydrated and exhausted, I stopped at Praia da Adraga. It was the most beautiful beach I’d ever seen, and, relaxing against the rocks and watching the sun slowly sink toward the horizon, I was content enough to save the rest of the hike for another day.
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