One of the very first things I noticed when I began my study abroad in Lisbon, Portugal was the aerial dance of Adorinhas, or swallows. Each evening they would take to the skies like miniature fighter jets soaring through the colorful rows of houses and purple jacaranda trees to feast upon insects. Like many birds, swallows migrate to warmer regions in the winter, but return each year to the same nest and mate to raise their young. In Portugal, Adorinhas are more than a bird, they are the embodiment of a word that has no direct English translation: Saudade.
While Adorinhas have strong cultural significance to Portugal, they are not the only birds who migrate through Portugal. In fact, more than 120,000 birds pass through the Tagus River Estuary during migration including waterfowl, shorebirds, raptors, and many more. The Tagus Estuary Natural Reserve comprises the largest wetland ecosystem in Portugal and is located on the outskirts of Lisbon. The Estuary’s proximity to the city makes it easily accessible for birdwatchers hoping to catch a glimpse of Portugal’s wildlife. As a bird enthusiast, I knew I had to see it for myself; so, here’s how I explored the estuary…
According to National Geographic, “the concept is best described as that feeling of melancholic connection you get when you taste your grandmother’s cooking or smell a scent that takes you back to your childhood.” Saudade is a longing for home, but a desire to once again experience the pleasant memories of a time before or even of a time that never existed. Portugal is a country of explorers whose maritime expeditions launched the age of the discovery during the 15th century. National Geographic explains, “We’ve sailed the world and we’re immigrants, and we always feel saudade for our homeland. A lot of people want to come back. The swallow represents that there is a nest somewhere in Portugal, although people are living all over the world.”
By Boat with River Friends
The best way to explore the Tagus is by boat and with the help of a knowledgeable guide such as Carlos Cera from River Friends. I booked my three hour tour through GetYourGuide for 50 euros. My friend and I were the only ones on the boat making for an intimate and relaxed experience cruising down the river. Along the way, we spotted numerous species including Purple Heron, Common Shelduck, and Western Marsh Harrier. However, the true show stopper was a ‘flamboyance’ of Greater Flamingos flying through the marsh. When we spotted them, the inner child in me smiled as the younger me was obsessed with their sassy demeanor and pink feathers.
We were there during nesting season, which can make it challenging to spot birds; but, you will get to see some fluffy ducklings. If you want to see the most birds, the best time to visit is during fall migration. During September and October, thousands of Flamingos reside in the reeds and plovers from the arctic begin to trickle back down for the winter.
By Land at Salinas do Samouco
Just 30 minutes from the Oriente Station, is the Salinas do Samouco. Historically, the site was the largest producer of salt in the country, but now it primarily serves as a natural park. The entry fee is 4 euros and I took a bolt there and back (around 38 euros roundtrip). It is possible to arrive on public transport; however, the ferry has limited hours and the bus service can be unreliable.
I hiked the wildflower lined Flamingo trail which took me on a path through the marsh dotted with Greater Flamingos, Black-winged Stilts, and many Eurasian Spoonbills. The trail weaves around the salt pans where you will pass by donkey stables. Be sure to stop in and say ‘hello’ to the friendly Mirandese Donkeys, the only native breed to Portugal.
As I prepare to depart Portugal and migrate back home, the lessons of Saudade ring clear. Whatever way you choose to experience the Tagus River Estuary, remember to be respectful of the wildlife that calls the reserve home.
Leave a Reply