After returning from studying abroad last year in Paris, I felt as if a part of me had been left behind. I would constantly look through the thousands of photos I took, listen to the songs I played on my afternoon métro commutes to school, and catch up with the friends I made in France whenever I could, trying to relive that time I hold so dear in my heart. So, when I stepped into one of my favorite bookshops (shout out to Hills and Hamlets in Georgia!) last summer and saw The Paris Novel by Ruth Reichl sitting on display, I knew I had to take it home with me. Although it was a few months before I started reading it, when I did, I was magically swept away to the City of Love circa 1980.
Paris is famous for its art, food, fashion, and literature. The Paris Novel brings all of these elements to life through rich descriptions that appeal to all of your senses. That said, it is more than just a guidebook to Paris; it depicts the self-discovery journey of Stella, a young woman who reluctantly finds herself in France after her mother dies, leaving her with nothing but a one-way plane ticket and a note reading “Go to Paris”. I enjoyed how the story makes you feel as if you’re falling in love with the city, experiencing it all for the first time through Stella’s eyes, whether you’ve been there or not.
To bring The Paris Novel to life (and perhaps inspire your next trip), I’ve put together 10 locations that encapsulate Stella’s experience (complete with map)…
Food Spots
The Paris Novel largely focuses on food, which makes sense, considering that the author, Ruth Reichl, is a chef and food critic. One of the first places Stella goes to in Paris is the famous restaurant, Les Deux Magots, which has served as a meeting place for artists and intellectuals to gather from all over the world. It’s where Stella and her beloved companion, Jules, meet and where Stella indulges in oysters for the first time. Even though I’ve never had a desire to try oysters, she describes them in such a way that made me want to: “A ruffle of black encircled each opalescent heart; she thought of orchids… she reached for an oyster, tipped her head, and tossed it back. The oyster was cool and slippery, the flavor so briny it was like diving into the ocean” (p. 34).
Robert et Louise is another restaurant where Stella experiences the flavors of Paris. Known for its historic appeal and intimate setting, the restaurant is currently run by Robert and Louise’s daughter, Pascale. They serve traditional French cuisine and cook all of their meat over a wood fire. In the book, Reichl gifts us with rich descriptions here, transforming a simple moment of drinking wine into a vivid sensory experience – “Cherry, she thought. Licorice. Thorns. She imagined a forest in late autumn, damp leaves on the ground, a blaze of color” (p. 67).
L’as du Falafel is another great option for food in Paris, and one that Stella goes to in the book. It’s located in Le Marais (one of my favorite neighborhoods!) and is famous for their falafel, no surprise there. The restaurant is casual and quite small, but the food is very good. It’s well known throughout Paris and with celebrities – their Instagram proudly points out that they’re “recommended by Lenny Kravitz”!
Must Visit Spots
Shakespeare and Company is one of the most iconic literary spots in Paris. The beautiful bookstore is nestled next to the Seine River and has served as an artistic safe-haven for writers like Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, and more. It’s famous for allowing writers to develop their craft while living there for free since George Whitman (the shop owner) created the “tumbleweed” program in 1951. In The Paris Novel, Stella lives alongside George at Shakespeare and Co. as a “tumbleweed”; the bookshop serves as one of the most prominent settings of the story.
Next is the Sacre-Coeur Basilica, a historic landmark for the Church of France that has been around for almost 140 years. In The Paris Novel, Stella mentions it, saying “he led them across cobbled sidewalks and down tiny twisting streets, the great dome of the Sacrê-Coeur hovering above them like a benevolent moon” (p. 247). The basilica does feel like Paris’ north star – large, beautiful, and positioned upon a hill, it’s something you look up towards with awe. The view of the city from the outside of the Sacre-Coeur is one of the best, so even though it’s a hike to get there (unless, of course, you opt to take the funicular), the journey is well worth it.
Heading back towards the city center, you can make a stop at Les Halles for any of your mainstream shopping needs. While it’s not a spot I find particularly riveting due to its striking similarities to American malls, I found the history behind Les Halles to be pretty interesting. In the book, Stella converses with a chef about Paris: “‘Paris has not been the same since we lost Les Halles.’ Stella grimaced, remembering the flashy mall that had replaced the food market” (p. 177). Before the mall was there, Les Halles served as “the city’s central market for centuries” and was replaced due to hygiene concerns and increasing traffic congestion.
Get outside too
One of the best parts about the city of Paris is how nature and parks blend seamlessly with the urban landscape. Place des Vosges is a beautiful square at the heart of Le Marais, where locals often sunbathe and picnic. It’s perfectly manicured and has the most lovely historic appeal, as it’s the city’s oldest square. In The Paris Novel, Stella wanders into a vintage dress store at the Place des Vosges and tries on a dress that becomes the catalyst for many of the events that occur throughout the story.
The Tuileries Garden is a park that you can’t miss in Paris. Located conveniently next to the Louvre, you feel as if you’re living in a dream with a view of both the glass pyramid and the Eiffel Tower in the distance. What was once a playground for only the royal family is now open to all, serving as an ideal spot to people-watch or take an afternoon stroll through, as Stella does in the book.
Art, of course
Art also has a central role in The Paris Novel, and when you think of Paris and art, it’s hard not to imagine the Louvre. While the Louvre doesn’t play much of a part in The Paris Novel, it would surely be a place that Stella would enjoy going. Its collections “are an invitation to travel – a celebration of beauty in all its forms and guises, transcending classification,” the website reads, emphasizing the Louvre’s timeless appeal. If you’re in a time crunch, you can see the Louvre in under 2 hours, but if you have time to spare, you could definitely spend a whole day in there – the pieces and collections feel never-ending!
For a more modern approach to art, you can visit The Centre Pompidou, a museum that Stella walks by and admires in the novel. Their mission is to: “enable a maximum number of people to discover modern and contemporary works through exceptional exhibitions, by supporting emerging creation and presenting a forward-looking programme based on the freedom and creativity of the artists”. I never got to go while I was living in Paris, but it is definitely on my list of places to see in the future. Do note: Pompidou is closed as it renovates and is scheduled to re-open in 2030! So we’ll all have to wait a bit before getting that experience.
Should you read this book?
Reading The Paris Novel was a lovely trip down memory lane. It does a great job at painting vivid images in your mind, although I felt that the first half of the book lagged a bit. Towards the end, there was more of a storyline to grab onto and keep me interested; however, the beginning felt a bit slow in my opinion. In a blog post from That Happy Reader blog, Jodie shared similar sentiments, stating that “the middle section of the book dragged for me, and I struggled to stay engaged.” I also wanted to point out that there are a few scenes depicting sexual abuse at the beginning of the book, which may be hard for some to read.
In terms of comparisons, The Paris Novel is similar to the movie Midnight in Paris due to their romanticized representations of Parisian culture and shared emphasis on self-discovery. While The Paris Novel leans into a somewhat stereotypical view of the city, I enjoyed it and felt Reichl portrayed the city in a way that many readers would enjoy. Paris’s location was perfect for the story to center on food, art, fashion, and literature; it felt very fitting.
Anyone who’s planning a trip to Paris should definitely read The Paris Novel. If you want to relive a previous trip, you should read this book too! It paints the city in an idealistic way, highlighting all the best things about Paris. Some may think it’s overromanticizing the city, and I can’t argue that the novel’s plot line seems unrealistic at times, but I also stand by the fact that Paris lives up to its hype. I would give The Paris Novel 3 out of 5 stars – it was an enjoyable read thanks to its rich imagery, though I would have enjoyed it if the story were slightly faster-paced towards the beginning. I can’t deny that reading The Paris Novel had me feeling like I was back in Paris, and that’s worth a read!
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