Crimson tile roofs juxtaposed with bright blue of the river Tagus, framed by the purple paradise of jacarandas and magenta bougainvilleas, all accented with blue and white azulejos. It’s hard to believe the views from Lisbon’s miradouras are real when you see them with your own eyes, no Instagram filters, no editing. They’re really just that gorgeous. It’s sort of the way you feel when you walk up to the rim of the Grand Canyon and peer over the edge. There’s a reason people are flocking to see these once “hidden gems”… many of which are in the oldest neighborhood of Alfama. The upside is the beauty. The downside are the crowds, especially when cruise ships dump 20,000 tourists right at the base of the hill there. But don’t despair, as there are ways to beat the crowds to make the whole experience something you won’t forget. And my tips come complete with a walking map (at the bottom of this article)…
Plan your Alfama day as either a Tuesday or Saturday. This is to specifically time our to visit the Feira da Ladra, which has been going on in Lisbon since 1272! So cool. It’s been in Campo de Santa Clara, behind the monastery of São Vicente de Fora, for the last 140+ years. Even if you don’t love thrifting and flea markets, head here for browsing and a breakfast bite. There’s all sorts of vendors with great foods and even good bica! Bring cash so you don’t have to line up at the ATM, as you’ll want to buy stuff from local artists selling shirts, art, and jewelry.
From the market, you’re going to trace your way back to the water DOWNHILL. That’s an essential element in this plan.
You take Tram 28 first thing in the morning to the São Vicente stop, shop the market then head downhill towards the Castelo de São Jorge. You could opt to head up to the castle from here, but I wouldn’t. I’d save that until later in the day so you’re not there at the full height of the sun. But you’ll be right there and it would save you steps to just go after the market. So it’s your call.
Whichever order you choose, next comes those gorgeous views. Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol are right across from the street you’ll walk up toward Castelo de São Jorge, if you’re going now. Otherwise follow the map below to trace your way between miradouros and on down the hill over to the Roman theatre excavation. You can see this for free and/or depending on how much time you have could also go into the museum proper (that’s not free). Same thing at Casa dos Bicos, which is up next. Depending on how long you’ve taken to do these things, depends on where you eat lunch this day. You could explore Alfama’s winding little streets all day, if you wanted. There’s good views tucked in everywhere, along with eateries and shops and azulejos.
When you get to Bicos, you’ll be at a transportation hub near the river for buses and could take one to the Azulejos museum, which is what we did. Or you could take the bus back up a ways toward the castle after lunch in this area. Remember, don’t eat any place that has guys outside hawking their food. The good places don’t need that!
We went to the castle after the tile museum because the museum closes first and we really wanted to go, and I’m really glad we did! That put us at the castle later in the day with less people and then sun not directly overhead in the sky. There are some trees up there, but it’s mostly outside in the sun.
If you don’t want to do either the castle or tile museum at that point, you could go to the Rua Augusta arch, the (free) money museum, and even the wine tasting room in the Praça do Comércio (all of which you can see on the map below).
I’ve detailed these and other Lisbon museums you can visit for free or pay to go to the expanded versions of here.
The day I’ve outlined above can be done on a variety of timelines, given physical fitness of those in your party, level of love for museums, and/or interests. Whatever you pick, don’t rush the walking. It is meant to be a relaxing stroll mostly downhill, with some inevitable uphill walking too (of course – you’re in Lisbon. It’s hard to avoid). Remember, it is all about the journey… not just checking things off the “to-see” list.
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